Important points
Mashed potatoes are one of my favorite homemade dishes. I’m always trying new recipes and techniques to improve them, but I never thought I’d turn to one of the most influential professional chefs of our time, Anthony Bourdain, for mashed potato inspiration.
Recently, as I was feeling nostalgic about my own culinary school days, I flipped through Bodin’s Les Halles cookbook and stopped by his recipe for pomme purée. The ingredients and method were exactly the same as classic mashed potatoes, so I had to make them right away. Of course, I’m so glad I did, because Anthony Bourdain is going to change the way I make mashed potatoes forever.
Why Anthony Bourdain’s mashed potatoes are the simplest
Bourdain’s recipe calls for Idaho potatoes. Idaho potatoes are a type of russet potato and are known for their fluffy texture when baked. Here, the potatoes have less moisture so they stay smooth and non-sticky when mashed.
Many recipes for mashed potatoes call for boiling the potatoes, but I’ve never seen one that calls for halving them by length rather than width, especially with the skins on. Once cut in half, pour the potatoes into cold water seasoned with a generous tablespoon of salt and bring to a boil over medium heat. I find that halving the potatoes allows them to cook faster until tender, and makes it easier to peel them after draining and before mashing.
Simply Recipes / Megan Sprown
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Once the potatoes are cooked and the water has drained, Bourdain instructs you to bring the cream and butter to a boil in a separate pot while the potatoes cool. Honestly, I felt like the amount of cream was too much for the amount of potatoes, but I made it according to the recipe.
The potatoes, cut in half, easily slipped out of their skins and could be crushed back into the empty pot in which they were boiled. When the cream mixture boils, add the potatoes little by little while mashing. The potatoes will become smoother and creamier during mashing thanks to the heat from the cream mixture. Again, I had a few moments where I doubted the amount of cream and butter in Bourdain, but I kept going. And I’m really glad I did.
These were the best seasoned mashed potatoes I’ve ever had in my life, with no added salt other than boiled potatoes. The potatoes were incredibly smooth and creamy with very little starch. I usually swear by using a potato ricer to make restaurant-quality mashed potatoes like this, but with the Bourdain I’m hooked all over again on the simplicity of a masher.
The versions of these potatoes in the Les Halles Cookbook include several variations (Chive Mashed Potatoes, Red Pepper Pomme Puree) and are worth adding to your collection, but the classic version is the one I make over and over again.
anthony bourdain mashed potatoes
6 Russet potatoes, cut in half lengthwise (you don’t have to peel them).
1 tablespoon salt (add more if you like)
2 cups fresh cream
6 tablespoons butter
freshly ground black pepper
Place the potatoes in a large pot and add cold water until completely submerged. Add salt and bring to a boil. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until potatoes are easily pierced with a paring knife.
Drain the potatoes. When it’s cool enough to handle, but still warm, remove it from the skin and discard the skin.
In a small saucepan, bring the cream and butter to a boil.
Return the potatoes to the large pot and mash with a potato masher. Pour in the hot cream mixture in 4 portions, mixing each time until evenly distributed. Once the potatoes are smooth, add pepper and salt to taste. Serve immediately.
