Cool the browned butter. I like to freeze the butter until it’s completely solid, which makes the process faster. Freeze the butter in a bowl for 30 minutes, then stir thoroughly, scraping down the sides and folding the still melted part in the center over the solidified mass. Return to freezer for another 15-30 minutes. The whole thing should be solid. Cut it into pieces in a bowl. It doesn’t have to be equal.
To make cookies in a food processor: Place flour, 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in the work bowl of a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the cold brown butter chunks and cream cheese and pulse to combine until all visible bits are gone and the mixture looks like breadcrumbs. Add eggs and vanilla and blend until mixture is fully combined, scraping as needed (dough will be rock-like). Then continue running the machine for about another minute, until the dough mixture is thick and smooth.
If using an electric mixer: Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl and whisk together. In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, beat cream cheese, chilled brown butter, and 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix again, scraping the bowl as needed. Add flour mixture and mix until flour is incorporated. In some cases, the dough made this way may be too soft to roll by hand. In that case, please chill it in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes before using.
Heating oven: up to 375°F (190°C)
Finish the cookies. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine remaining 3 tablespoons (40 grams) granulated sugar and all the cinnamon. Scoop the cookie dough into 1.5 tablespoon balls (I use a #40 scoop), gently roll in your hands to smooth, roll in the cinnamon-sugar mixture, then place on the prepared baking sheet. Use your fingers to flatten each dough ball slightly (Photo: 1/3). Repeat with remaining cookies, 2 inches apart.
Bake cookies: 10-11 minutes. The surface is still very soft and feels like it’s lightly baked, but it will solidify as it cools. Let the cookies sit on the baking sheet for 2 minutes, then transfer the cookies to a rack to complete cooling.
Make ahead: These cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week.
Note:
Basic Butter: What I’m looking for here is basic, non-European, regular fat-free butter. You know, the kind you get in a one-pound box of four “sticks” in most American grocery stores. Store brands are fine. (If you want a thicker, higher-fat butter, add less water after browning the butter.) Why use water: Browning the butter evaporates the water in the butter (this is what causes it to splatter in the pan). Add water to give the cookies the perfect soft texture. I used to measure water loss by volume and recommended adding just under 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of water for every cup of butter. But when I recently started weighing my brown butter instead, I was surprised to find that it started out weighing 227 grams, but after browning it weighed 186 grams (or minus 41 grams). This means you need to add back 2 tablespoons and 2 teaspoons of water (40 grams). However, I find that these cookies have the best texture when converted to 3 tablespoons (45 grams) of water, and that’s what I’m going for here. Was it super nerdy? yes. But I know someone was going to ask.
